Model Farm Wines — Sonoma Mountain Wine Dinner at The Black Olive
On April 30, The Black Olive welcomes Joanna Wells and Sean Castorani of Model Farm Wines for an intimate evening centered on the people behind the vines.
In a world where wine is often shaped by formula and expectation, Joanna and Sean have chosen a different path—one rooted in a deep understanding of the land and a belief that great wine begins in the soil. Their work brings together scientific precision and intuitive artistry, forming a rare balance between study and instinct. Sean’s background in environmental science, with a focus on soil chemistry, is complemented by Joanna’s hands-on experience and refined sensibility developed through years in the cellar. Together, they craft wines that are thoughtful, expressive, and deeply personal.
Their vineyards lie in the rugged elevations of the Sonoma Mountains, where thin, rocky soils and natural exposure create wines of intensity and character. These are not easy sites to farm—and that is precisely the point. By embracing these challenges, they allow the land to speak fully through the wine.
What sets them apart even further is their unwavering commitment to farming entirely by hand. Without tractors or shortcuts, they preserve the natural structure of the soil and maintain a direct connection to each vine. Their vineyards function as living ecosystems, supported by biodiversity, cover crops, and a philosophy that seeks to restore rather than extract.
In the cellar, their approach remains restrained. Native fermentations, thoughtful use of whole cluster, and minimal new oak ensure that nothing obscures the voice of the vineyard. The result is wines that are alive—textured, energetic, and honest reflections of place.
The 2023 vintage they bring with them is already being recognized as something exceptional. Shaped by a long, cool growing season, these wines show remarkable balance, purity, and a return to a more classic style of California winemaking. The 2023 Cabernet Sauvignon from Sonoma Mountain has already received 95+ points from John Gilman, who called it “one of the best young California cabernets I have tasted in the last twenty years,” drawing comparisons to the great wines of the 1970s—structured, mineral, and built for longevity. Alongside it, the Wildcat Mountain Vineyard Chardonnay offers a striking counterpoint—elegant, lifted, and precise, with vibrant acidity and a clear imprint of its cool-climate origins. Additional selections, including wines from Berger Vineyard and the Staiger Vineyard, will further explore the depth and range of these mountain sites.
These are not widely available wines. They are produced in small quantities, spoken about quietly among those paying attention—and rarely experienced in the presence of the people who made them.
This evening is more than a wine dinner. It is an opportunity to experience these wines alongside the people who farm them, to hear their story, and to understand the intention behind every bottle. Paired with a multi-course menu rooted in the ancestral traditions of The Black Olive, the experience becomes a conversation between land, culture, and craft.
We are honored to bring Joanna and Sean to our table—where wine is not simply served, but shared in its truest form.
